The History of Jewellery: Aztec Jewelry

I was privileged to visit the exhibition at the Australia Museum in Sydney and view the various exhibits of Aztec jewelry on display.

The exhibition was put together by the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa in partnership with Mexico’s National Council for Culture and the Arts and the National Institute of Anthropology and History (CONACULTA-INAH), along with the Australian Museum and Museum Victoria. All pictures of the Aztec jewelry shown were taken during my visit to the exhibit.

With over 200 priceless artifacts on display the exhibit tells the rich and violent story of the birth of modern Mexico. A brutal yet civilized culture, the exhibits shows the story of the daily life of these ancient people with their gods, demons, warriors, slaves, nobles, commoners and human sacrifice. It tells the story of the extravagant possessions of the Aztec emperors while exploring their sacrificial rituals and uncovering the mysteries of the Aztec afterlife.

This is a model of an Eagle warrior dressed for battle. The costume was made from animal hide, feathers and cotton. Note the beads around the neck and the jade around his wrist. He carried wooden weapons with obsidian blades designed to injure rather than kill. The prisoner would be taken back for human sacrifice.

Read more about the gods and the role of human sacrifice .

Rich and valuable Aztec jewelry was mainly worn by emperors, nobles and members of the upper class. Nobles indulged in the finest products, many of which had both a religious and a practical significance. It was believed that greenstone and turquoise were prized by the gods, even more so than gold. Only the elite could wear gold and these semi precious gems. Aztec jewelry for the more common people and peasants was very colorful, and created from colored beads and hand-painted decorations.

A Greenstone Mask of the Olmec Culture

Masks and figures made by the Mezcala people were another form of treasured Aztec jewelry. The Mezcala people were an ancient group who occupied the region 2000 years prior. The relics of the Mezcala culture were excavated but heavy taxes were imposed on them by the government. The masks were used by the priests to impersonate the gods. They lacked eye holes so were probably on display rather than worn. The figures were used for important daily ceremonies and as offerings to the gods. The gods were a very important part of everyday life.

Read more about the gods and the role of human sacrifice .

Greenstone Figure

Aztec jewelry comprised of necklaces with charms and pendants, armlets, bracelets, leg bracelets, bells and rings. One common form of Aztec jewelry was the ear plug or ear spool, commonly worn by both men and women. Aztec jewelry was very ornate and would feature natural shapes, but would also be crafted into the shapes of birds, and reptiles, often with a religious significance. Small tinkling bells were popular and were often fashioned to look like flowers. The little bells would then be hung from necklaces and bracelets or sewn to clothing so that they jangled when the wearer danced. Thus Aztec jewellery often was heard as much as it was seen. Men would often wear ornaments in their noses, through a hole in the nasal septum and suspended from a slit in their lower lip.

Bells

Aztec jewelry was very symbolic and represented gods and other religious symbols and during religious or state occasions, the nobility would glitter with a wide range of Aztec jewelry. The religious ceremonies in Mexico today are an integration of the ancient Mexican ceremonies mingled with the Spanish Catholic influence.

Bells (Copper, Silver)

Aztec jewelry was shaped by craftsmen who learnt their skills in childhood and dedicated their lives to their craft. The tools they used to make the exquisite designs were relatively simple. It was made with a wide variety of materials, and usually more than one type of material went into one piece. Sheets of hammered copper or gold were used extensively in Aztec jewelry, but silver was also commonly used. Silver is found abundantly in Mexico and silver adornments are still very popular and commonly sold in Mexico today. It is interesting to note however that the majority of Aztec jewelry and other luxury items were made outside of the capital and came to the city via tributes, trade and ceremonial exchange.

1- Snake shaped Sceptre (Stone, turquoise)

4 –Sceptre

5 –Deer Shaped Sceptre (Alabaster)

6 –Sunbeam Sceptre (Alabaster)

7 –String of Beads (Serpentine)

9 -Pendant

10 –Pendant showing God Rural Workers

11-Pendant showing the God of Fire

12 – Ear spools. (Mixtec)

8- Pendant

14 –Pendant (Conch Shell)

13 – Face Mask (Guerrero Style Serpentine, Shell, Obsidian)

15 –Disc (Conch Shell)

16-Pendant (Greenstone)

Unfortunately very little of the beautiful gold work of this ancient era survives today. In their lust for gold, the Spanish plundered the gold from the temples and stole gold from the nobles, melted it down and sent it back to Spain.

These Bracelets and Shield Shaped Pendant are an example of some ancient golden Aztec jewelry. Known as the Fisherman's Treasure, they were found in 1976 by an octopus fisherman in a sunken Spanish ship off the coast of Mexico. The pendant was probably owned by a member of the elite. The “C”s were added by the Spanish – this stood for Coronada, the monogram of King Charles V of Spain.

Aztec jewelry also features in their ceremonial armour and shields. However their featherweight garments often with intricate shell bead edging and necklaces were designed for festivals. Combat armory was of similar construction, and was made out of woven reeds and feathers. Sometimes wood or leather were used. Whilst they were good to repel local weapons they were no match for the Spanish in their heavy armor and with steel swords.

Replica Ceremonial Armour

Replica Ceremonial Shield

Some of the ancient designs of Aztec jewelry are still popular and crafted even today in this modern world. I have sister who lives in Mexico and when I visit I just love browsing through the various market places looking at some of the fabulous creations on sale. I personally have a lot of silver and turquoise pieces purchased in Mexico. I love the designs which have originated from ancient Aztec jewelry and wear them regularly as costume jewellery to spruce up and add color to my outfits. The Australian museum had a wide selection of replica Aztec jewelry on sale.